First week in Spain - The Balearic Islands first touch a Spanish coast

 

Sailing from Sardinia to Spain

We are getting closer to the destination we set for the first part of the journey - to reach Gibraltar and cross to the Canary Islands by the end of September. First evidence is the replacement of the flag waving on the mast to the new host country - Spain! The flag, which has already been replaced three times (Greece, Italy, Spain), will stay with us for a good few months.

Balearic Islands - three not very large islands, off the Spanish coast: Menorca (small), Majorca (large) and Ibiza (parties…). I'm already preparing the alibi, we've also flipped through these, we've already sailed them, we can also sail them further, additional anchor points for the "want to go there" list of Pension B.

From the last point in Sardinia (Carloforte), which I mentioned in the previous post, to the first point in the Balearic Islands, Menorca, a 36-hour cruise. This time it was harder than the previous long voyages. The sea was reasonable, the winds were a bit against us. Winds of reasonable intensity, but coming from the direction of the bow, bring with them bow waves that make it difficult to progress. We tacked, in the language of the sailors, which means we sailed 30-40 degrees from the direction we meantn to so that the wind is lateral and so are the waves, once to the right and once to the left, so that at the end of the day we reach the destination. This necessarily means extending a route, and constantly a little "fighting" with the wind to stay as far as possible in the direction of the destination.

We meet on the way large ships which we don't  like
this in a medium size not far from us 😱

Beyond that, the beautiful sunsets do not disappoint and each time is different. This time was especially beautiful so I will spare you one more sunset:

Time to start making dinner, and the fish caught with the help of the spotted plastic lure with the magic, this time was probably particularly heavy and strong. After a fight with the gnarled captain, he stole the rapala (the doll) and ran away!

I realised there was no one to rely on right now, and pulled out fresh ravioli from the Italian supermarket. The fishing line in the meantime is back tin the water with a not very promising new rapala.

Dinner is over, Udi is about to go to bed and I am taking a shift, when suddenly there is a strong pull on the rod. Albacore tuna again! I skip the hunter photos and sends only the yield:

In the right hand is a spicy ceviche and in the left a salted fish for the coming year

This is how I reassured Gavri, who calls himself one of the elderly Kastina (his words are not mine!), Who cared if there would be fish for Shabbat dinner….

This time a fish with okra

We arrived in the special bay of Menorca after sunset. The bay is quite crowded, and we are tired. Eventually we manage to anchor, and sit down straight for Friday dinner, it's already 10 o'clock at night… Lucky I managed to cook everything "before Shabbat", that is, while rocking. One of the benefits of feeling good enough even in a swaying sea.

Anyone who knows us notices that there has been a change and refreshment in the long-standing relationship. Udi has been cooking at home for more than 30 years. The arrangement between us was that Udi was cooking at home and I was on the boat. Very egalitarian :-) No doubt I enjoyed for years a fine dish served to the table, when I am at most in the role of sous-chef, when arriving early enough from work… I think the children are sure that mother is disabled in this section, and that's fine, not everything is perfect. We are a "modern" family.

This time it seems that the long-standing agreement is no longer really in my favor. I took command of the kitchen in every way. Udi has no foothold, neither in cooking nor in washing dishes. He asks for special permission to invade my space. And I really enjoy it! I enjoy cultivating, I enjoy cooking, I enjoy taking care of a healthy and varied diet, I enjoy pampering through food. The "Moroccan mama" has finally come out… So, among other things, she tries not to eat junk, that the meals are arranged, even while sailing, and on the way also lose weight. Win Win !! By the way, according to my account, because of the not simple conditions in the boat boat + tough working conditions, and a high level of risk in the swinging sea, every day my kitchen = a year of Udi in the comfortable kitchen at home. So I have a total of two weeks left max… 😅

Stove with three flames! Connected with hinges on both sides so as to maintain balance with boat oscillations. Those with keen eyes will see that the pots are held by clamps (not dangerous!)

Refrigerator with floors, to take out eggs you have to reach the 3rd floor! Photographed on a weekday, before shopping, almost empty

?This is the whole kingdom! Don't I deserve a shorter service?

So far nutrition and accounting matters of 35 years of marriage….

Minorca!

A pretty flat island with a kind of hill in the center, low and windswept shrub vegetation, nothing to write home about, except for the sweet capital city, and its gorgeous bay, with two islets. The bay is second in beauty and protection to the famous Gulf of Malta. Therefore, throughout history, the island has been the focus of wars of control between the powers in the Mediterranean, and has gone through many hands. The city is built on a cliff above the bay, and the ascent to it from the shoreline by a number of impressive staircases. Cute alleys, interesting architecture, cafes, restaurants and trendy shops, and everyone is having fun! There is not much foreign tourism, the vast majority domestic tourism. We are anchored in one of the enclaves in the bay, a distance of about half an hour in our dinghy. From the first moment we touched the beach it was clear that we had arrived in Spain, not because of the Spanish, but because of the kindness and unpretentious cordiality of the locals. In our travels in the Mediterranean, we have come to the conclusion that the Spaniards are the people of our choice. Not to offend others, certainly not the Greeks, and that is a wild generalisation, and after all the reservations, at least that is our experience.

Without unnecessary words, this time a lot of pictures:

Bench inside an impressive stem 

Notice the mask-wearing style I learned in Italy

Entrance to an innocent looking fish market seen from the gate
!Entrance to an inner courtyard on one side a fish market and on the left - heaven

For those who do not know the concept

Pinchos, endless types of beautiful, varied and delicious snacks a dream for tasting lovers

And it went on and on
 we worked hard to choose only six

Anyone who enlarges the image will be able to see an impressive collection of Siphons, once an acceptable gift for a wedding, usually received 10 (people were once modest) today - decorating a trendy store. Was closed so we have no idea what they are selling, 

probably soda water

The one from London is anchored in front of the orange rescue monster

 ...Finally there is a picture of us both but it came out dark
 ...I am innately so and Udi is very tanned

 !!The biggest sailboat I've ever seen. Three front sails
In the following picture you can see the flag of the United Kingdom
London Home Port, you can also read its name
 if someone knows the owner who will check if it's for sale

And there is also a cool one with a cheerful family on board

And there are those who think it is beautiful and order a special construction

!But there's only one Esterka, which we love very much

On our way back to the mooring bay, we saw a small island with an occurrence that seemed interesting. We moored, climbed stairs and discovered a jem. An impressive building that was a hospital built by the British in the early 18th century, and served as a healing place for their naval personnel. First hospital built outside the United Kingdom.

Just a month ago the place reopened after changing its face radically, but very beautifully! The place and the accompanying politics can be read in the Guardian (here is a Link), an interesting article that sheds light on Minorca, which has remained outside the standard route of tourism (relative to neighboring Mallorca and Ibiza). Now in its' place a trendy restaurant, a small museum with exhibits from those days, a large museum with modern works, however designed to promote the idea of ​​an education and creation space to refugees (I think the first was built in Lesvos Greece). A charming and exciting idea. Gives hope that there are more good people in the world. I photographed the explanation board for those who have the patience to read and are interested, and it is possible and recommended to learn more about the organisation at the link.

There’s also a church of course

Ancient map of the Mahon bay

Reconstructed hospitalization room.
I loved the night pots that are ready to line up

From then until today - a symbol of medicine

The pharmacy was closed ...
Photographed through a window

Education Lab
 One can try to enlarge to read or search for them online

One of the exhibits in the modern part

Another short night in Mahon Bay and the next morning we are on our way to Mallorca.

Majorca is more mountainous and beautiful. Partly forested with fresh green pines, descending to a rocky shore. The voyage was supposed to be leisurely with an excellent wind for the sails, and so the day began. Later the calm sea became wavy, the wind changed direction and weakened, and the last part was swaying especially and on an engine. We arrived for overnight parking in a magical bay in the afternoon, at a perfect time for an evening snorkeling. I have found that it is the ultimate cure for my back pain. The waves entering the bay add a slight sway. A nightmare for those suffering from seasickness is pleasant for us, and if it does not get stronger, it guarantees a sweet sleep… Unfortunately, it got stronger and the sleep was less sound than we expected.

Midway meal

The captain fills a boat logbook at the end of each cruising day

The next day, we continue on our way along the western side of Mallorca so that there will be a good starting point for the Spanish coast (see map). The day started bright and beautiful, again going out at sunrise. After about four hours of sailing the sky was gloomy… Heavy rain began to fall, so surprisingly at the end of August it was particularly hot. Refreshing and as if not cold at all. For a moment we thought that with so much sailing, we arrived in Scotland 😜

And so we arrived at another overnight mooring in Mallorca, at the foot of a tiny village sitting just above us, at the edge of the cliffs. In the meantime the rain has passed, the sky has not completely cleared, but hot enough that the captain will also jump into the water…

The pastoral did not last long, until Udi noticed that Esther was approaching the rocks. The anchor chain, which was firmly embedded, was wrapped around a large rock, and as soon as the wind direction changed, it was released. We remained stuck but not sure. If there is doubt, then there is no doubt, an iron rule in the sea. We picked up the anchor, a little late to look for a new mooring, we decided on an overnight cruise to Denia, a coastal town south of Valencia, on the Spanish coast.

The way there was more challenging than expected. Here too the climate crisis is giving its signals, and weather forecast sites are messing up (always checking more than one). Instead of a light breeze in the right direction, which ensured a leisurely sailing, we were caught by a mad lightning and thunder storm and torrential rain. The sights were breathtaking, but the tough sailing + dinner preparation, Udi on the wheel, so no pictures ...

I will not cover, we had a hard night, not dangerous in any way. Just a rocking boat, uncomfortable to sleep. Still we succeeded heroically. Shifts are not completely organised, one is more alert in the cockpit and the other tries to catch a nap. Towards morning the business calmed down, and the rest of the leisurely cruise allowed us to complete hours of sleep and arrive fresh for a first touch of the Spanish coast, the town of Denia.

Spoiler:

Half an hour drive north of here lived my youth friend, Ruth Elkana, whom I had not seen for more than 30 years. We meet tomorrow, sure to be interesting. About that and more in the next post ....