Well, well… a little over three days…. Similar to the organized trips of yesteryear, that trips abroad were a once-in-a-lifetime event. The organized trips promised "Europe in ten days." Endless journeys of endless travel (domestic flights were too expensive), skipping between the capital cities and the monuments not to be missed…
We are in a similar mode. For sailors, this is called delivery, and the intention is to transfer a boat by a hired crew, for grounded people who do not waste valuable time on sailing long distances. So we do this delivery ourselves. Destination, Gibraltar until early / mid-September to go out with the right winds for the Canaries. In our defense it has been said that we have sailed these areas for several seasons of sailing in recent years. Also, even when we wanted to stop and rest, we are in August and everything is crowded and disgusting…
We are in a similar mode. For sailors, this is called delivery, and the intention is to transfer a boat by a hired crew, for grounded people who do not waste valuable time on sailing long distances. So we do this delivery ourselves. Destination, Gibraltar until early / mid-September to go out with the right winds for the Canaries. In our defense it has been said that we have sailed these areas for several seasons of sailing in recent years. Also, even when we wanted to stop and rest, we are in August and everything is crowded and disgusting…
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| Flying through Italy |
Relaxing into the pace of the cruise and the division into shifts (about sailing at night I think I told in a previous post). Once you get into the routine it's really even fun, especially when the moon is shining.
We arrived in Italy after 50 hours sailing from Pilos, Greece. Anyone who has followed the blog so far, knows that we replaced batteries in Pilos before we left. Does this mean a calm cruise without worrying about power consumption? Absolutely not… An electronic meter that monitors battery filling and battery use drives us crazy. It seems that even when we are motorized, and are supposed to charge the batteries up to 100%, the batteries are running low. Breaking our heads, worried, trying to crack the mystery. To be sure, we stay on the engine even when the winds are blowing. Ochhh… Lucky Udi insisted on completely filling up the diesel tanks before we left Pilos.
We arrived in Italy after 50 hours sailing from Pilos, Greece. Anyone who has followed the blog so far, knows that we replaced batteries in Pilos before we left. Does this mean a calm cruise without worrying about power consumption? Absolutely not… An electronic meter that monitors battery filling and battery use drives us crazy. It seems that even when we are motorized, and are supposed to charge the batteries up to 100%, the batteries are running low. Breaking our heads, worried, trying to crack the mystery. To be sure, we stay on the engine even when the winds are blowing. Ochhh… Lucky Udi insisted on completely filling up the diesel tanks before we left Pilos.
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| The sunsets do not disappoint either, especially when three small dolphins come to visit. |
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| Moonrise Overall sailing is comfortable, but the batteries disturb our rest… The decision on where the first mooring will be in Italy (port of entry) was influenced by the corona - yes, even the location of entering Italy is affected by the bastard… Although we sail within Europe, each country has its own corona procedures. The fact that we are vaccinated is critical but not enough. At the entrance to each country you have to fill out unique forms, declare that we are good and vaccinated people, and of course show boating licenses and ownership of Ester. The Mediterranean sailing blog (which is why I opened Facebook for the first time in my life!), Is full of sailor fumes about the difficulty of entering Italy. Not that they have special requirements, they just do not like to work .. The classic places to enter Italy for boats coming to this area are cities in Sicily that we would be happy to return to. The sailors' reports were of waiting for hours to days in front of the towns, without getting off the boat, waiting for the long-awaited approval… The procedure is overall simple. Fill out a form, attach a vaccination certificate, send to the port's health department, and wait for approval. So why does it take days? To the Italian God Solutions… We decided to be unconventional, and opt for a port of a forgotten city facing Sicily, hoping that they are less flooded with requests. Before we left Greece, when we were in cellular reception range, we sent an email to the Reggio di Calabria Health Department, a gamble that turned out to be successful. Within a few hours we received confirmation that we were kosher for entry! All is well, except that the city is not something to write home about…
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Nevertheless, three good things happened in the gloomy town. First, we found ourselves moored to a small pier, a total of 10 sailboats in the marina. Two boats next to us moor an Israeli family! First meeting with Israelis since we left, and even especially nice! Father Shai, mother Shir and four lovely children! Yael is 15, Maayan is 13 and twins are 10, Hadas and Ram. Each is more charming than the other. Sailing on their refurbished catamaran "Bazo" for three months. They returned a year ago from a two-year tour of the Caribbean. They had to shorten their journey because of…. True, Corona!
We went together to have ice cream in the best place in Calabria! The queue in front of her bodes well, indeed, excellent Italian ice cream!
From there we continued to a local museum, which to our surprise was open despite the late evening hour. I heard about the museum from Ofra, my sister, who came to this town because of her husband's conference, and was looking for how to pass the time until they crossed to tour Sicily. Even then she told me excitedly about unusual sculptures on display in the museum of this insignificant town. After visiting the museum, I felt grateful! In the remote museum, archeological finds taken from the sea, from the period when the area was ruled by the Greeks (about the fifth century BC). An impressive and special collection of pottery and marble sculptures. But the highlight, two bronze statues, twice the size of a man, are beautiful in a way that is hard to describe! So here are some pictures:
From there we continued to a local museum, which to our surprise was open despite the late evening hour. I heard about the museum from Ofra, my sister, who came to this town because of her husband's conference, and was looking for how to pass the time until they crossed to tour Sicily. Even then she told me excitedly about unusual sculptures on display in the museum of this insignificant town. After visiting the museum, I felt grateful! In the remote museum, archeological finds taken from the sea, from the period when the area was ruled by the Greeks (about the fifth century BC). An impressive and special collection of pottery and marble sculptures. But the highlight, two bronze statues, twice the size of a man, are beautiful in a way that is hard to describe! So here are some pictures:
The story of their discovery is particularly interessting. In the early 1970s, a holiday maker from Rome went snorkeling for his enjoyment. At a distance of 200 meters from the shore, at a depth of about five meters, he saw a human hand peeking out of the sand. He was sure it was a body, and decided to dive and touch. To his surprise the touch was metallic. A few more free dives, and sand removal, and the guy unveiled these two amazing bronze sculptures, which have been waiting for exposure for over two thousand years! Of course archaeologists and restoration people came into the picture. The sculptures are beautifully preserved, are considered super rare. Really worth a special trip. We came out excited from the experience, even the young children. It was impossible not to be deeply impressed.
We rolled back into the boats, having a fluent conversation and fun with the whole family. They had planned to set off for Greece the next morning, but the "family" meeting and the Friday caused them to postpone their departure, and to invite us to dinner the next day, in their boat.
The whole next day, Udi and I spent trying to figure out how to deal with the battery problem, which even with real shore electricity refused to fully charge (at least according to the electronic gauge). How to explain to an electrician in fluent Italian, something we can not explain to ourselves. Suddenly enlightenment! I was reminded of Yaakov, the mechanic / electrician who took care of Esther A for several years while mooring in Jaffa. Not only did he take care of Esther, he also educated Udi with a basic understanding of the boat systems. Together they spent long evenings in Ester's treatments. Jacob was also our savior when we got into trouble on cruises on Esther A. He was our phone friend. No matter where we are and at what time, if there is cellular reception, Jacob will be on the other end of the line, and with endless patience, and super professionalism, will guide Udi and will not let go, until the problem is solved. I also wrote about Jacob, the greatest of them all, a post called "A Song of Praise to Jacob" in the previous blog. Feel free to open the link.
Friday, and our enlightenment costed Jacob six hours of conversation, including a video call, accompanying photos and tests and more tests. The end of the matter, Jacob gave us permission to continue on our way, with instructions to go ahead. His conclusion, at this point, the voltmeter and current is lying! maniac! How much sorrow and worries caused us! By the way we got a lesson in electricity on Esther B. Dear man I already said? But payment for the work he refuses to accept. Makes it difficult to call the next fault, which will surely come ...
The dinner on board BAZO with the Israeli family, challah that Udi prepared, kiddush, a song for Shabbat and children, brought with it a feeling of warmth of home and family and longing for children. The children in the house gathered to sit in our house, which is now Gili's house, which she moved to as soon as we left, to take care of Xabi (the cat), flower pots, and to be a living home for the brothers. And indeed fulfills the task with dignity and enjoyment. Everyone gathered for Friday with us, and we in continuous communication receive reports of preparing a joint dinner, in which everyone takes part, and Roni wins over the kitchen. Aside from the private conversations with each of them, there was also a short conversation live, with the table set and full of all goodies, and the company dressed especially festively for Shabbat, we get the whole show, saturated with contentment, and fly over them. There is nothing like them! The next day they also get a video of their visit to Grandma Ana. Paradoxically, the relationship with them is now more intense, in terms of telephones, and those who have been "released from the yoke of parents" have taken command and seem to be doing a lot of good for their togetherness. What a relief! Another worry has been removed from my heart, for now…
Photos from the dinner, sorry for the quality. Mainly as a sweet and warm memory:
We rolled back into the boats, having a fluent conversation and fun with the whole family. They had planned to set off for Greece the next morning, but the "family" meeting and the Friday caused them to postpone their departure, and to invite us to dinner the next day, in their boat.
The whole next day, Udi and I spent trying to figure out how to deal with the battery problem, which even with real shore electricity refused to fully charge (at least according to the electronic gauge). How to explain to an electrician in fluent Italian, something we can not explain to ourselves. Suddenly enlightenment! I was reminded of Yaakov, the mechanic / electrician who took care of Esther A for several years while mooring in Jaffa. Not only did he take care of Esther, he also educated Udi with a basic understanding of the boat systems. Together they spent long evenings in Ester's treatments. Jacob was also our savior when we got into trouble on cruises on Esther A. He was our phone friend. No matter where we are and at what time, if there is cellular reception, Jacob will be on the other end of the line, and with endless patience, and super professionalism, will guide Udi and will not let go, until the problem is solved. I also wrote about Jacob, the greatest of them all, a post called "A Song of Praise to Jacob" in the previous blog. Feel free to open the link.
Friday, and our enlightenment costed Jacob six hours of conversation, including a video call, accompanying photos and tests and more tests. The end of the matter, Jacob gave us permission to continue on our way, with instructions to go ahead. His conclusion, at this point, the voltmeter and current is lying! maniac! How much sorrow and worries caused us! By the way we got a lesson in electricity on Esther B. Dear man I already said? But payment for the work he refuses to accept. Makes it difficult to call the next fault, which will surely come ...
The dinner on board BAZO with the Israeli family, challah that Udi prepared, kiddush, a song for Shabbat and children, brought with it a feeling of warmth of home and family and longing for children. The children in the house gathered to sit in our house, which is now Gili's house, which she moved to as soon as we left, to take care of Xabi (the cat), flower pots, and to be a living home for the brothers. And indeed fulfills the task with dignity and enjoyment. Everyone gathered for Friday with us, and we in continuous communication receive reports of preparing a joint dinner, in which everyone takes part, and Roni wins over the kitchen. Aside from the private conversations with each of them, there was also a short conversation live, with the table set and full of all goodies, and the company dressed especially festively for Shabbat, we get the whole show, saturated with contentment, and fly over them. There is nothing like them! The next day they also get a video of their visit to Grandma Ana. Paradoxically, the relationship with them is now more intense, in terms of telephones, and those who have been "released from the yoke of parents" have taken command and seem to be doing a lot of good for their togetherness. What a relief! Another worry has been removed from my heart, for now…
Photos from the dinner, sorry for the quality. Mainly as a sweet and warm memory:
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| On "Bazo" Mom Shir below, Dad Shay with a hat to sit in honor of Kiddush |
The next morning when we got up Bazo had already left, we waited for the laundry to return from the launderete, fragrant and folded. A little more shopping, and off we go.
Crossing the Straits of Messina is a bit tricky. There is a crazy phenomenon there that may be typical of Straits in general. Expected and timed ocean currents. If you went out at the wrong time, with the current against you, you get to a point where the current velocity is almost at the speed of the boat, which means you are at full engine power and not advancing. If you caught him after he overturned, you're flying. In the middle of the strait, a strip of water collides with each other and a line of foam emerges on the water. Charming.
Immediately after the Straits a town called Scilla is especially cute. For those who are familiar with the phrase "between Scylla and Charybdis" it is here. The first on the mainland, the second in front of it on Sicily. The meaning, "between the straits." In the old days it was considered a particularly dangerous strait, eddies, currents, and sunken boats. Some of the mythologies.
Here are some pictures:
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| Straits of Messina on the left Sicily and on the right Calabria |
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| The beautiful Scilla |
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| The boat with the tall tower is designed for fishing for swordfish in the strait. Up the captain directs the driver, in the bow that comes far forward from the body of the boat, the fisherman with the ring. On a previous voyage we saw in action. |
From here, after some deliberation, we decided to continue to a tiny island that is supposed to be beautiful called Ustica, north of Sicily, part of the Aeolian group right in front of the western tip of Sicily (see map).
Ahead is a night cruise, 24 hours from the Straits of Messina. This shift was particularly difficult in the transition between Sicily and Aeolians, a million fishing boats, tourists, sailboats and ships that run at night, mostly crossing our route. Many do not broadcast AIS. To our aid the radar that has become significant, and detects every object included a direction of displacement, and from it one can also request alerts. In short a pretty tense shift, no kitchen cleanings until about two hours pass and business calms down.
We arrived in Ustica before noon. madhouse! A million tiny motorboats running around you. The town is tiny, looks beautiful from the sea. There are almost no moorings, and cliffs from all directions. After turning it around and not finding a mooring place, we decided that in any case we did not feel like this end of August tarf and prefer to continue straight to Sardinia. Ester is equipped with food for about a year, tanks full and weather is expected to be with us. We continue for another 30 hours sailing until the first touch in Sardinia.
Ahead is a night cruise, 24 hours from the Straits of Messina. This shift was particularly difficult in the transition between Sicily and Aeolians, a million fishing boats, tourists, sailboats and ships that run at night, mostly crossing our route. Many do not broadcast AIS. To our aid the radar that has become significant, and detects every object included a direction of displacement, and from it one can also request alerts. In short a pretty tense shift, no kitchen cleanings until about two hours pass and business calms down.
We arrived in Ustica before noon. madhouse! A million tiny motorboats running around you. The town is tiny, looks beautiful from the sea. There are almost no moorings, and cliffs from all directions. After turning it around and not finding a mooring place, we decided that in any case we did not feel like this end of August tarf and prefer to continue straight to Sardinia. Ester is equipped with food for about a year, tanks full and weather is expected to be with us. We continue for another 30 hours sailing until the first touch in Sardinia.
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| Bye Ustica |
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| The captain |
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| Many hours of quiet sailing. We love it! |
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| There is nothing like jumping into the water in the middle of the sea |
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| This time mullet fish that went in the oven stuffed with herbs |
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My first bread directed by Master Baking Udi "The baker shouldn't comment on his dough" ... but it turned out delicious |
In Sardinia the situation is already different. You can find calmer moorings, there are many options. Stopping twice in beautiful bays, dwindling moon sunrises, snorkeling in water in a crazy phosphorescent light blue color. And in general Sardinia, which we also used to taste on land, is worth a long visit of its own, when we return to the Mediterranean, in what we now call a "second pension."
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In the meantime we have not gotten off the boat to the beach for 5 days. Last night in Sardinia a tiny town called "Carloforte" the southwestern peak. Cute and beautiful here, I would be happy for more, but we are on a mission on the way to Gibraltar. Fill more Italy debt we promised ourselves, fine pizza! A little more shopping, a lot of parmesan for the coming months…
That's it, so we passed Italy (there is no doubt a crime against humanity) but we'll be back!
Now on the way to the Balearic Islands off the coast of Spain. Aimed at Minorca, but dependent on winds. If not Minorca then Majorca or Ibiza. Everything goes, just do not quarrel with the sea.
Carloforte:
That's it, so we passed Italy (there is no doubt a crime against humanity) but we'll be back!
Now on the way to the Balearic Islands off the coast of Spain. Aimed at Minorca, but dependent on winds. If not Minorca then Majorca or Ibiza. Everything goes, just do not quarrel with the sea.
Carloforte:
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| Just because you pay 86 euros a night does not mean you get service. This is how it is in Italy. Udi makes a quarter of an hour walk with a 100 liter tank of fuel, twice! |
Next update from the first week in Spain.
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